Hi,
My 8440p keyboard light cannot switched of, always stuck in open position, light turned on... This is the tiny lamp on top of the screen, illuminating the keybord below. How can I get replacement part for it? Or any HW fix?
Thanks,
Hi,
My 8440p keyboard light cannot switched of, always stuck in open position, light turned on... This is the tiny lamp on top of the screen, illuminating the keybord below. How can I get replacement part for it? Or any HW fix?
Thanks,
Not sure if I've posted this to the right board so forgive me if I have not.
About a few days ago I started experiencing issues with charging my laptop. I plugged it to the charger and it started making a horrid screeching noise, so I turned it off, which fixed the screeching, and left it to charge. It worked without issue yesterday, running for a few hours fine without being plugged in. I came to work on it today, plugged it in but kept receiving the "battery low" notification and the battery status said "discharging". I tried to troubleshoot but this could not be completed before the laptop ran out of battery and switched off. I tried turning it back on a few minutes later but was met with the same screeching noise as a few days ago before it died after about 30 seconds of powering up.
For now I'm letting it charge whilst turned off, with no screeching occurring when it is turned off. However, it is preferable that the laptop be usable whilst plugged in as I need it to do work over long periods of time (given that I do digital art and animation), and that the laptop tends to run (or did run) smoother whilst charging.
I would love any advice on the issue. Thanks!
I started getting Windows 10 boot errors on my wife's laptop and finally traced it down to a bad memory module. Thanks to the way how laptops are made these days it was not easy but Youtube helped out. On this laptop, there are 2 memory slots and the possibility to run the memory in dual-channel mode with is 20% faster than using a single channel module 8GB . So I replaced the part with a Corsair 2x4GB Value Select modules DDR3L 1600Mhz CMSO8GX3M2C1600C11. These modules worked fine, machine booted up and dual channel operation confirmed using CPU-Z tool. By pressing esc key whilst powering up machine allows you to boot into HP's built in configuration check to confirm correct operation of installed memory. Hope this helps some one out there!
I have a 3rd party warranty claim that needs a HP brand product (battery) and authorized installation. So I seem to have a couple options
- Get the part myself and have it installed locally
- Send the machine into the ether and hope it doesn't get frackked
- Get the part and install it myself and forgo the 3rd party claim
Phone support has been abysmal and I can't locate HP spare part for the battery to order.
Parts surfer for my serial number shows battery is 916814-855, ASSY-BATT 3C 55Whr 4.8Ah LI LK03055XL-PR.
Additional, non-HP searches, seems to match a lot on keyword "LK03XL", but none of the info shows up as an orderable part from HP.
Is this battery available from HP ?
Does the laptop need to be sent to HP Service (shudder) in order to get HP brand battery installed ?
How much would the part and service cost ?
Hi there, when I plug in my battery charger the battery charges for 5 seconds then stops.
It is doing this on both my laptops which started yesterday which is very odd.
I have tried a new charger today but not sure this charger is the right one.
Many thanks,
Paul
I'd suggest backing-up the data and try re-installing the operating system -
1) Shutdown the computer.
2) Turn the computer back on again and repeatedly tap on the ESC until a Startup menu appears.
3) Press F11 once for System Recovery.
4) Choose the Keyboard Layout.
5) Click on Troubleshoot.
6) Go to Recovery Manager and click on System Recovery.
Let me know.
Hi,
I am currently using an HP envy 14t model. I have an inbuilt hdd installed in the laptop. I was wondering if I could upgrade that to an SSD ? If yes which SSD would you recommend. I can provide further details of the laptop if required.
Your screen is non-touch which makes it easier. But, see p. 23 of the Manual here:
You are correct that you need both a screen and a cable to do this upgrade. Having to replace the cable increases the degree of difficulty of the upgrade quite a bit. You need these parts:
FHD, anti glare, non-touch L20376-001
Miscellaneous Display Kit (includes gaskets [4] and rubber corner positioning tools [4]; not
illustrated)) L23065-001
Display panel stretchable adhesive tape (not illustrated) L29080-001
Non-touch, FHD L23064-001
If purchased from HP Parts Store (if even available) the cost will approach that of a new laptop. Parts can likely be found on amazon or ebay but before I take the time to scrounge for them for you (and modestly there are not too many people better at finding obscure laptop parts) I want to be make sure you are "all in" with this project. A lot of people come here with the intention to do this but once they find out what all is involved when a cable replacement is needed they run for the hills. If you have to pay a technician to do this there is no way to bring the project in for a cost that makes sense.
Hi:
The missing driver is not for the Bluetooth.
It is the AmdAS4 service that is missing the driver. What that is, I do not know.
What I do know is I have zipped up and attached below, the driver you need for that device.
Download and unzip the file to its folder. Do not do anything with the files in the folder.
Go to the device manager, click on the unknown device needing the driver.
Click on the driver tab. Click on Update Driver.
Select the Browse my computer for driver software option and browse to the driver folder you unzipped.
Make sure the Include Subfolders box is checked, and the driver will install.
Then restart the PC.
Thanks for the very prompt help.
Mucho appreciado as we say in California.
You're very welcome.
No problemo, as we say in St. Louis.
Would it be cheaper just to buy a FHD monitor ?
I would like to disable the wifi and LAN adapter on a G7 250-US laptop via the BIOS so it isn't able to be turned back on in Windows itself. Is this possible? I'm not seeing any options to disable hardware via the BIOS.
Thanks,
The next step I would suggest would be installing the latest chipset driver. From the same link expand the driver-chipset menu, then download and install the first option (Intel Chipset Installation Utility). Once that is installed give your keyboard a try. It may ask you to reboot a time or two.
If that still doesn't work you may need to dig a little deeper and find the latest keyboard driver from the manufacturer. The easiest way I have found to do this is by finding the keyboard's hardware ID and doing a search within google using the given hardware ID. To find the hardware ID do the following:
- Click the Windows Start button
- Start typing device manager
- Select device manager in the search options that appear-
- Within the window that shows up expand the keyboards section
- Right click on the item that appears after expanding the section, and select properties
- In the Properties window click on the details tab at the top
- Then click on the Property drop down and select Hardware Ids
- I would suggest copying the first hardware id value and do a google search on that. That typically has gotten me to the latest manufacturer's drivers within the first page of search results.
If updating the chipset doesn't do the trick and you would like some help with the second option post the Hardware ID here and I'll see what I can find.
Good Luck
I need help finding a new battery for a
HP Notebook - 15-f222wm
Sorry Huffer but I don't see the problem. It certainly is not an ideal situation, but if you cannot open the case to remove the old hard drive because the brass nuts are stripped, then adding a SSD via the optical caddy is not a bad idea.
In fact, please note there are optical caddy to drive adapters just for this purpose! So what's the harm? Why a "bad" idea? Such a solution would provide power and a data connection via "SATA" - which I hope we can agree would be better than an external "USB" enclosure.
UserKalle, the OP, asked, "So... Is the new SSD inside DVD drive caddy: Samsung 860EVO 500GB still faster than the 5200rpm when used as a main drive inside DVD caddy ?"
The answer is a resounding yes! Even the slowest SSD (and the 860 EVO is no slouch) can run circles around the fastest hard drive (and no 5200 RPM drive would be considered quick).
As far as Indkan's performance issues - we don't have enough information to come to any conclusion. We don't even know which HP notebook he has. There are many possible causes for poor speeds when trying to clone a HD, including the amount of system RAM installed, the processor, interfaces and more - reasons that have nothing to do with the destination drive itself, in this case, a SSD.
hello and thanks for fast response. had this problem awhile now but only device manager seems to have a problem ie; yellow warning icon and "needs maintenance" note. windows security and maintenance claims devices and drives ok no actions needed. I thought it was my Bluetooth because I uninstalled/disabled it when win10 was new Bluetooth auto loaded on start and interfered with my wifi working at all. windows did fix/patch the problem and I didn't reinstall as I didn't use Bluetooth at the time. about 6 mons ago I installed Quallcom suite and driver installer but cant find device or settings for Bluetooth even with suite installed. My wifi device is Qualcom so I assumed my Bluetooth was too. probably why unknown device driver not available. maybe Bluetooth is realtech like my audio driver is. thanks for this fix. ill apply later today and maybe learn what AmdAS4 service is. will post results later tonite and thanks again Paul!
@riddle_decipher Thanks for getting back to me. I've tried all your suggestions, except trying an alternative adapter (not available). Unfortunately, the issue has not be resolved.
You're very welcome.
According to the product specs for your model notebook, it does not come with built in Bluetooth networking capability, or that feature would have been listed along with the 1x1 802.11b/g/n WLAN wireless connectivity specification.
https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c04307090
The parts list for your notebook indicates that it comes with an Atheros AR9485 802.11b/g/n 1x1 WiFi adapter.
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?searchText=J1J41UA
That model wifi adapter is not a combination wifi/Bluetooth adapter, which is why you can't find any Bluetooth devices or settings.
The laptop model is HP 15-ac044TU 15.6-inch Laptop (Core i3 5010U/4GB/500GB/DOS/Intel HD Graphics 5500).
Cloning using minitool and aomei were slow giving me 2-3 MB/s, so I dropped that plan and tried just normal copy of data from internal HDD to the new SSD, it was the same speed.
I checked for any loose connections and all looked good.
I bought the highest rated dvd caddy from amazon uk.
My initial worry was not the speed of cloning, I assumed it was due to some hdd to ssd cloning software process, but when it continued failing to boot from new ssd, I had to try to use it as hdd and then found its too slow to use.
And again, I have the same problem as Digerati, one screw is just spinning on its groove and unable to remove the cover fully to check SSD directly on the hdd slot.
After seeing effortless cloning videos in youtube, I wanted to do the same to give some life in to the old laptop, poor me.